Driving the heel of Italy — A luxury traveler’s guide to hidden stops and road in Puglia
- Borgomadre
- 3 days ago
- 6 min read
The roads in Puglia you need to follow
There’s a particular kind of freedom that only comes with getting behind the wheel in Italy, and nowhere is that more true than in Puglia.
This sun-drenched region at the heel of the boot has long been loved for its food, its sea views, its ancient olive groves, and its laid-back rhythm. But for luxury travellers who prefer to chart their own course, the real magic lies in the drive itself. The roads in Puglia aren’t a way to get from A to B, they are an entire experience in themselves.
Think whitewashed towns rising like mirages on the horizon. Crumbling stone farmhouses, backlit by golden light. Coastal roads where the Adriatic winks at you through wild rosemary bushes. And rural detours that lead to a family-run masseria where the only sound is the wind in the vines.
We’re not here to tick off cities on a map. This is about winding routes and roadside discoveries, long lunches and impulsive detours — all with a private luxury villa to return to each night.
In this guide, we’ll show you how to do it all:
The most scenic and relaxing roads in Puglia
Routes that take you from olive groves to cliffside towns
Hidden stops for long lunches, wine tastings, and coastal walks
Driving tips tailored for comfort and calm
And how staying at Borgomadre makes it all feel effortless
Because some of the best moments in Puglia? They’re the ones that weren’t on the itinerary.
It’s time to get lost on the hidden tracks.
Why driving in Puglia feels like freedom
There’s something about driving in this part of Italy that shifts the pace. Maybe it’s the low stone walls crumbling between olive groves. Maybe it’s the silence between villages — the kind you roll through with the windows down. Or maybe it’s the way the road bends unexpectedly and opens up to views that feel like a painting left out in the sun too long.
Getting behind the wheel in Puglia isn’t about ticking boxes or beating traffic. It’s about following instinct. Taking the scenic route. Stopping for a plate of grilled octopus because the place looked right. Letting the day stretch and fold around whatever catches your eye.
If you’re landing in Bari or Brindisi, car hire is straightforward, both airports have good rental options, and we recommend booking ahead if you’re travelling in peak months. Prefer something smoother? We’re happy to help arrange your car directly through Borgomadre, whether you want a classic Fiat or something with a bit more room to stretch out.
Our villas sit in a sweet spot — tucked into the Valle d’Itria, close to whitewashed towns and coastal roads that curve toward the Adriatic. From here, you’re within easy reach of everything, and nothing feels hurried.
Essential road‑trip routes from Borgomadre
Here are three off the beaten track drives you can take, each offering something that mixes countryside, culture or the coast.
1. The Adriatic Coast & Clifftop Route
Start from Borgomadre and head north‑east toward the Adriatic coast: through olive groves to the whitewashed town of Ostuni, then onward to the dramatic cliffs around Polignano a Mare and beyond.
On this route you’ll sample some of the most scenic roads in Puglia: think narrow curves, sea vistas, the white of stone buildings against blue water.
Hidden stop: In Polignano a Mare, park early and walk down to Lama Monachile beach — quiet in the off‑season, perfect for a luxury pause.
Back‑road option: Take the SP358 or lesser tracks along the coast for views that many cars skip.
Mid‑day treat: Stop at a clifftop terrace overlooking the Adriatic for fresh seafood and a glass of local rosato.
2. The Valle d’Itria & Trulli Countryside
This drive takes you inland through the heart of Puglia’s countryside: rolling hills, vineyards, trulli‑dotted landscapes.
Head south‑west from Borgomadre toward the Valle d'Itria, and consider the “Strada Statale 172 dei Trulli” (SS 172) route, a road rich in scenic character: built through olive groves and the iconic cone‑roofed trulli houses.
Hidden stop: Visit Alberobello in the early afternoon when tour coaches have left and the light turns golden on the white trulli walls.
Borgomadre tip: Pick up artisan ceramics or linens in Locorotondo, then return via a quiet secondary road for that feeling of exclusivity.
3. The Ionian Coast & South‑Western Puglia
For a longer but rewarding drive, head to the Ionian Sea side — a mix of wide beaches, quiet towns, and relaxed coastlines away from the main tourist flow.
From Borgomadre, drive toward Gallipoli, explore its old town, then continue along the coast to lesser‑known coves.
Hidden stop: Take a detour to Villanova Marina near Ostuni — a quiet marina town ideal for a seaside lunch away from crowds.
Scenic road: Use local provinciale roads that run closer to the sea than the A‑roads, giving you uninterrupted views at every turn.
Hidden luxury stops you won’t find in the guidebooks
A vineyard in Manduria offering private tastings of Primitivo while you watch the sun dip.
A restored masseria with olive‑oil tours, just off a quiet back‑road from the Valle d’Itria.
A clifftop café overlooking the Adriatic at dusk, with only the locals for company.
A fishing hamlet where you can watch boats come in, then stroll to a restaurant where the catch of the day is cooked that evening.
These stops are for savouring moments, not ticking off an itinerary. And with your villa as the base, you don’t need to rush on this whimsical adventure.
Practical tips for driving like a local
Driving in Puglia isn’t difficult, but it does have its quirks. A little local knowledge goes a long way toward making your road trip smooth and actually enjoyable.
Here’s what we always tell guests at Borgomadre:
ZTL zones are no joke. Many old-town centres are off-limits to non-residents at certain times of day, marked by Zona Traffico Limitato signs (a red circle with a white center). Ignore them and you might receive a fine — months later, by post. When in doubt, park outside the old town and explore on foot. It’s more beautiful that way anyway.
Choose a smaller car. It may be tempting to opt for a luxury SUV, but in Puglia’s hilltop towns and countryside lanes, compact is smarter. You’ll thank yourself when squeezing through alleyways or parallel parking between two stone walls.
Avoid driving old-town centres after dark. Even locals can get turned around in the maze-like streets of towns like Ostuni or Locorotondo. If you’re not familiar with the layout, daylight is your friend.
Use both GPS and offline maps. Signal can be patchy in more rural or coastal zones. Download your route ahead of time (Google Maps lets you save entire regions offline), and don’t rely solely on Waze or Apple Maps.
Drive assertively, but stay calm. Italians tend to drive with rhythm over rules. Indicators are used sparingly. Roundabouts feel like jazz improvisation. Trust the flow, give way when needed, and don’t take things personally — it’s just how things work here.
Gas stations may close midday. Especially in small towns, many benzinai still observe a long lunch break. Fill up in the morning or early evening.
Toll roads are efficient, but optional. You’ll find toll highways (the A-roads) useful if you’re heading from one end of the region to the other. But for scenic drives, the strade provinciali and statali are what you’re really here for — olive groves, vineyards, glimpses of the sea.
And of course, if you'd rather not deal with driving at all, we’re happy to help you arrange a private driver, a rental with GPS pre-loaded, or even a full itinerary of scenic drives — all from your Borgomadre villa.
Why these routes work with Borgomadre
When you stay at Borgomadre, you get the luxury of returning from your drives to a place of calm and authenticity.
Your accommodation becomes home — you don’t shuffle hotels every night.
After your day on the roads in Puglia, you come home to olive groves, heated pool (in cooler seasons), outdoor kitchen or candle‑lit dinner on the terrace.
Because you’re based in a quiet, elegant villa, you can choose the pace: pause when you like, explore when you’re inspired, and always return to something restful.
Sample 3‑day drive + stay planning
Day 1: Drive to Polignano a Mare via the Adriatic coast. Lunch overlooking the sea. Return to Borgomadre for sunset tennis or pool.
Day 2: Explore the Valle d’Itria and trulli houses. Visit Alberobello & Locorotondo. Dinner back at your villa with a private chef prepared pasta route.
Day 3: Ionian coast day: Villanova Marina – Gallipoli. Cruise the local roads, stop when a view catches you. Evening glass of wine under the stars at Borgomadre.
Grab your keys and let’s go for a drive
Choosing to explore roads in Puglia is a new adventure that you may have never even thought of. The pace slows, the scenery opens up, and the hidden stops become memories. For the luxury traveller who wants beauty, ease, authenticity and a home base that pampers, the journey becomes part of the stay.
If you’re ready to sit back in the driver’s seat, let the olive‑lined roads lead the way, and return to a villa designed for comfort and charm, then let Borgomadre be your starting line.
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